Piglio, annullata la Sagra dell’Uva
La Città di Piglio si vede costretta ad annullare i festeggiamenti per la Sagra dell’Uva a causa delle restrizioni straordinarie legate alla pandemia da Covid19. L’ evento più atteso dell’anno, dal forte carattere popolare, ebbe origine a fine Ottocento con l’intento di inaugurare l’inizio della vendemmia. Interrotta durante la Seconda Guerra Mondiale, la manifestazione venne rilanciata agli inizi degli anni ’70. Quest’anno sarebbe giunta alla 47° edizione. Nell’attesa di tempi migliori, ci consoliamo al tenero ricordo delle sospirate edizioni passate, magari davanti ad un bel calice di Cesanese del Piglio!
Folklore, cucina e tanta allegria
Per l’occasione ogni anno il paese accoglie migliaia di turisti, attratti dall’atmosfera allegra e frizzante che si respira lungo i vicoli del piccolo borgo montano, in cui ci si può imbattere facilmente negli abitanti del posto, in costume tradizionale. Nel corso dei festeggiamenti non mancano angoli dedicati alla storia e alla cultura pigliese. Mostre fotografiche raffiguranti scorci e paesaggi incantevoli, immortalati da angolature segrete del centro storico o dai monti circostanti; utensili e attrezzi agricoli tirati a lucido dalle cantine più buie e polverose per rianimare gli antichi mestieri, incastonati in scene di vita contadina, allestite su carri allegorici che fino a qualche anno fa sfilavano lungo le vie del paese.
Nei vicoli più remoti, gremiti di visitatori, tutti i pigliesi, dai più grandi ai più piccini, intonano e ballano i motivi popolari ciociari. Chiunque si trovasse a passare da queste parti, verrebbe letteralmente trascinato dall’allegria e dalla spensieratezza dell’aria di festa. Incorniciati da botti di rovere, damigiane e filari d’uva, gli stand gastronomici offrono piatti tipici della cucina locale, quali fettuccine fatte a mano e carni rosse, accompagnati dalla cicoria (“pallòcco” in pigliese) e dall’immancabile preziosa bevanda rubina, la cui storia si intreccia spesso a richiami leggendari.
Peculiarità e origini del Cesanese del Piglio D.O.C.G.
Protagonista assoluto è (e tornerà ad esserlo) il celebre Cesanese del Piglio, vino dalle qualità eccellenti, annoverato tra i DOC e i DOCG d’Italia e del Lazio sulle Guide enologiche nazionali e internazionali. Lo squisito liquido dal caratteristico colore rosso rubino con nuance violacee viene prodotto da uve Cesanese di Affile, vitigno a bacca rosso scuro, quasi nero, caratterizzato da grappoli piccoli a maturazione tardiva. Secondo la tradizione, nottetempo una giovinetta del posto trafugò un ramo del vitigno e lo trapiantò a Piglio, in cui i fattori climatici e territoriali contribuirono a creare un’eccellenza del territorio. In realtà, già gli antichi Romani conoscevano la vocazione vitivinicola dell’area nostrana specialmente per la produzione di vini dolci. Attratti dal clima mite, i coloni romani si dedicarono ad un’ampia opera di disboscamento per fare spazio alle coltivazioni di Cesanese di Affile. Non esistono documenti attestanti l’origine del nome del vitigno. Tuttavia, l’ipotesi più accreditata sostiene che derivi dal termine latino “caese” (= tagliati), con cui i Romani indicavano gli spazi in cui erano stati tagliati gli alberi, da cui “cesanese”. Ancora oggi nelle campagne di Piglio sono visibili i resti della villa dell’Imperatore Nerva, il quale si fece costruire una residenza per godere del clima mite e del buon vino. Dopo la caduta dell’impero Romano, la viticoltura continuò a giocare un ruolo chiave per l’economia locale. Furono soprattutto i monaci benedettini di Subiaco a dedicarsi alla coltivazione del bizzarro vitigno a bacca nera, la cui squisitezza era nota soprattutto tra gli esponenti della Roma patrizia. Nel Medioevo, i vini da Cesanese erano i re delle cospicue mense di Papi e Imperatori. Urbano II, Bonifacio VIII, Innocenzo III, nonché Federico II di Svevia ne annaffiavano i festosi convivi. Gli osti di corte giungevano presso i nostri villaggi per fare le scorte di uva e di vino.
Un territorio dalla forte vocazione vitivinicola
Le peculiarità climatiche (temperatura annua media di 15,6 °; forte insolazione a settembre e ottobre; elevata escursione termica giornaliera; abbondanti precipitazioni annue; scarse piogge estive) e le caratteristiche del terreno (prevalgono le terre rosse con detriti calcarei e argillosi) costituiscono la combinazione ideale per una maturazione lenta e completa delle uve. I vigneti si estendono sull’alta-media collina (220 – 980 m. s.l.m.) e dànno basse rese produttive. *Tuttavia, gli ottimali fattori microclimatici conferiscono complessità e vigore ai vini ottenuti, il che li rende prodotti di alta qualità.
Come nacque il Cesanese del Piglio D.O.C.G.
La nota vocazione vitivinicola della campagna pigliese fece sì che nel 1970 venissero condotti degli studi sperimentali su alcuni cloni di Cesanese di Affile coltivati a Piglio e che presto avrebbero dato esiti sorprendenti. Si ottenne un vino con non meno di 14 gradi, dal colore rosso rubino tendente al granato con l’invecchiamento. Nel bouquet la delicatezza del vitigno di base sfuma nel gusto in note amarognole. Morbidi richiami floreali alla viola e alla rosa lasciano spazio nel retrogusto ai frutti rossi, quali la mora, la ciliegia e il lampone, prelibatezze dei Monti Ernici. Nel 1973 il nostro vino ha ottenuto il riconoscimento D.O.C. per poi guadagnarsi il D.O.C.G. nel 2008.
Da degustare, non da bere!
Il Cesanese del Piglio D.O.C.G. non va bevuto tutto d’un fiato, bensì degustato lentamente. Solo così si potrà testare il suo vero carattere. Se all’inizio può risultare acre, robusto, schivo e introverso, sorso dopo sorso si sprigionerà il suo lato più nobile, fresco, delicato e vivace. Perchè in fondo è un vino generoso, come la terra di cui è frutto; e paziente come le sue genti, che lo producono, lo affinano, lo celebrano. E ne vanno fiere.
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